Apartment #7 - Saavedra

Nacho has lived in Saavedra his whole life, right on the edge of where Buenos Aires the capital becomes the province.  And because it is so close to the border it has a real sense of space and tranquility, a nice break from the hustle and bustle of downtown BsAs.  The suburb is also home to a huge park, just a couple of blocks from where he lives.

Nacho has been living in his apartment here for about a year, which he shares with his brother and two cats, one belonging to each of them.  It is the perfect house for two adventurous cats, as the back balcony opens up to a mish-mash of neighbouring walls and gardens ready to be explored.  The 1960s brown sofa and matching armchairs belonged to Nacho´s grandfather and go rather nicely with the peach coloured walls and patterned floor tiles.  Some concertina doors keep the 60s/70s vibe going and provide the option of separating the bedrooms from the living area and the kitchen.

Being so far away from the action makes for long bus and train trips every day, but Nacho wouldn´t have it any other way. The journey makes arriving home to the neighbourhood of his childhood even better.

Apartment #6 - La Boca

Gabriela has been living in her apartment in La Boca for about two years.  It is huge by Buenos Aires standards and quite a luxury that she only shares it with her boyfriend and not three or four other people as well (and this luxury was achieved by some serious Swiss planning).

La Boca meaning the mouth, is a port-side suburb home to Boca football stadium (la bombonera), the colorful Caminito tourist precinct and a whole lot of history.  The suburb has a reputation for being on the poorer and dodgier side of town, but it is a big neighbourhood and as always it depends on where you are and who you know.  Gabi lives close to the bottom of Parque Lezama and the neighbourhood of San Telmo, in a traditional and commercial area away from the tourists.  Her apartment is at the end of a long passage and up one flight of stairs.

Opening the apartment door, light fills the corrider that leads down one complete side of the building.  Along with light it is spacious, has a view from the living room to an immense garden next door, there is an exposed-brick wall in the dining area and most importantly, a rooftop terrace.

The apartment is her oasis in the city.

 

Gabriela´s favourite thing about the apartment is the rooftop terrace, complete with a parilla or bbq and views of nearby Boca Stadium. 

Apartment #5 - Almagro

Jonathan has been living in Buenos Aires for over three years and has only been in his new apartment in Almagro for a week, but it already feels like home for him.  The apartment is right at the back of the group, in a property that originally housed many families and people together in a kind of communal living.  These buildings were known as conventillos, where rooms in each apartment were rented by different people and existed predominant in the southern neighbourhoods of San Telmo and La Boca, close to the port around the early 1900s.  This style of living was common for recently arrived immigrants and people that were from the lower classes.  Today some of these buildings remain and are divided into separate apartments.  

The entrance and internal courtyard space is vast for Buenos Aires standards and there is a huge palm tree that greets people when they enter the complex.  When you enter Jonathan´s apartment you find a hallway with windows on one side looking out onto the courtyard entrance, and the three bedrooms one after the other, each with access from the hallway.  At the end of the hall around the corner is a common area with a dining table, and an attached kitchen with a breakfast bar.  Light fills the hallway and dining areas and the old windows reflect their patterns and shapes in shadows.

The apartment is a glimpse into the history of Buenos Aires and it´s inhabitants.

 

This last photo is of the footpath in front of the building, and is a plaque in remembrance of someone who lived in the building and was kidnapped and killed by the military government that took control of the country during the 1970s and 80s.  Many of these plaques exist around the city as a way to rememeber some of the more than 30,000 people that "disappered" and were killed during this time, and a constant reminder of their presence and the recent dark history that belongs to Argentina.  The plaque says:

"Alicia Pardo lived here and was kidnapped, political activist, detained and disappered by the terrorism of the state, 02.06.76. Neighbourhoods for the memory and justice."

Apartments 3&4 - Recoleta

Recoleta is where the old money is, and along with the money it´s full of beautiful old buildings.  The residents are mostly older too, lending a sophisticated air to the neighbourhood and it´s stores and coffee shops.

My Colombian friend Camila rents a room in the first apartment, which is owned by a young Argentine doctor who rents two of the three bedrooms to foreigners.  Her bedroom is the room that a mucama or live-in maid would have usually occupied, a small space with an even smaller bathroom, where the washing is hung to dry.  But despite the size Camila loves where she lives for the location and the friendly atmosphere of the shared apartment.  It can be quite difficult and expensive for foreigners to rent in Buenos Aires, as real estate agents require another property owner in the capital to sign your contract incase you default on the rent.  There are many share houses for foreigners but they are usually expensive, and there are often more people than bedrooms.

One of the apartment´s best features is the long balcony that runs along one side and has room for some chairs, some plants, and even a hammock.  In a city where outdoor space is premium, the balcony is a great summertime oasis.  The apartment has three toilets, quite a nice luxury when you are sharing with strangers, and a good sized living/dining room that is defined by two green walls and a speckled mirror above a chesterfield-esque couch.

This last shot is a view from the roof of the building and shows the typical Buenos Aires skyline.

Apartment number two is where Daniel lives, another Colombian residing in Buenos Aires.  He has been living in his studio apartment for a few months, after previously renting a room with an Argentine family. 

The distribution of space in the apartment makes it seems bigger than it is, and the strategic placement of a low bookshelf divides the space in two, providing a living and bedroom area. The apartment is full of light and he rents it with the furniture included. The space is uncluttered, and while the atmosphere is a little less bachelor than perhaps he would choose for himself, it´s practical and functional.

Two of Daniel´s favourite things are the location and convenience of the supermarket below his building, as well as finally having a space to himself.  

Daniel´s apartment building has a roof-top space with the all important Argentine parilla or BBQ that can be reserved to use for parties and general good bbq-ing times.  The view is great, and directly in front is the national library, a very iconic piece of architecture.