Barracas Street Art

Way down south in the industrial suburb of Barracas was this warehouse painted in all shapes and shades of blue.

Apartment #5 - Almagro

Jonathan has been living in Buenos Aires for over three years and has only been in his new apartment in Almagro for a week, but it already feels like home for him.  The apartment is right at the back of the group, in a property that originally housed many families and people together in a kind of communal living.  These buildings were known as conventillos, where rooms in each apartment were rented by different people and existed predominant in the southern neighbourhoods of San Telmo and La Boca, close to the port around the early 1900s.  This style of living was common for recently arrived immigrants and people that were from the lower classes.  Today some of these buildings remain and are divided into separate apartments.  

The entrance and internal courtyard space is vast for Buenos Aires standards and there is a huge palm tree that greets people when they enter the complex.  When you enter Jonathan´s apartment you find a hallway with windows on one side looking out onto the courtyard entrance, and the three bedrooms one after the other, each with access from the hallway.  At the end of the hall around the corner is a common area with a dining table, and an attached kitchen with a breakfast bar.  Light fills the hallway and dining areas and the old windows reflect their patterns and shapes in shadows.

The apartment is a glimpse into the history of Buenos Aires and it´s inhabitants.

 

This last photo is of the footpath in front of the building, and is a plaque in remembrance of someone who lived in the building and was kidnapped and killed by the military government that took control of the country during the 1970s and 80s.  Many of these plaques exist around the city as a way to rememeber some of the more than 30,000 people that "disappered" and were killed during this time, and a constant reminder of their presence and the recent dark history that belongs to Argentina.  The plaque says:

"Alicia Pardo lived here and was kidnapped, political activist, detained and disappered by the terrorism of the state, 02.06.76. Neighbourhoods for the memory and justice."

Recoleta, the Neighbourhood

Walking around Recoleta today my Argentine other-half remarked that it felt like we were in Europe.  And it did, what with all the spotlessly clean streets and beautiful old European buildings.  It´s a different side to Argentina, a side that the tourists like to see and I think the way many people still like to think of this Paris of South America: with romance, history and beauty.

Some of the buildings are stunning, from their roof-top details to the vast entrances and imposing doorways.  The suburb is home to the luxury shopping mall Patio Bullrich, originally owned by the Bullrich family and used as an auction house for collections, livestock and thoroughbreds. And there is my newest favourite French bakery L´épi that has the best almond croissants and pain au chocolat that I have tasted in this city, or anywhere outside of France.

Perhaps it was due to the obvious beauty of the neighbourhood that I found it difficult photograph, or it could have just been that my little digital camera just wasn´t up to the task, but anyway, you get the idea...

 

Apartments 3&4 - Recoleta

Recoleta is where the old money is, and along with the money it´s full of beautiful old buildings.  The residents are mostly older too, lending a sophisticated air to the neighbourhood and it´s stores and coffee shops.

My Colombian friend Camila rents a room in the first apartment, which is owned by a young Argentine doctor who rents two of the three bedrooms to foreigners.  Her bedroom is the room that a mucama or live-in maid would have usually occupied, a small space with an even smaller bathroom, where the washing is hung to dry.  But despite the size Camila loves where she lives for the location and the friendly atmosphere of the shared apartment.  It can be quite difficult and expensive for foreigners to rent in Buenos Aires, as real estate agents require another property owner in the capital to sign your contract incase you default on the rent.  There are many share houses for foreigners but they are usually expensive, and there are often more people than bedrooms.

One of the apartment´s best features is the long balcony that runs along one side and has room for some chairs, some plants, and even a hammock.  In a city where outdoor space is premium, the balcony is a great summertime oasis.  The apartment has three toilets, quite a nice luxury when you are sharing with strangers, and a good sized living/dining room that is defined by two green walls and a speckled mirror above a chesterfield-esque couch.

This last shot is a view from the roof of the building and shows the typical Buenos Aires skyline.

Apartment number two is where Daniel lives, another Colombian residing in Buenos Aires.  He has been living in his studio apartment for a few months, after previously renting a room with an Argentine family. 

The distribution of space in the apartment makes it seems bigger than it is, and the strategic placement of a low bookshelf divides the space in two, providing a living and bedroom area. The apartment is full of light and he rents it with the furniture included. The space is uncluttered, and while the atmosphere is a little less bachelor than perhaps he would choose for himself, it´s practical and functional.

Two of Daniel´s favourite things are the location and convenience of the supermarket below his building, as well as finally having a space to himself.  

Daniel´s apartment building has a roof-top space with the all important Argentine parilla or BBQ that can be reserved to use for parties and general good bbq-ing times.  The view is great, and directly in front is the national library, a very iconic piece of architecture.

Cowboys

Technicolour cowboys in Palermo...